Thought for Food

Underground Eats knows how to put on a hell of a show. One six-course meal, three all-star chefs — Sean Brock of Husk and McCrady’s, George Mendes of Aldea, and our friend Dave Santos, of Louro and before that Um Segredo. I mean the talent in that kitchen…! And the happy feelings in my mouth…!

Chef Brock’s food was more than worth the years I’ve waited to taste it, and even managed to take me by surprise despite the reams I’ve read about it (good thing, right? food should always be more than words can describe). Speaking of words that cannot do justice, ‘elegant in a very earthy way’ is the phrase that popped in my head when describing it to a friend.

Good news for my fellow New Yorkers who have never made it to his places in Charleston: Chef’s big goal is to open a restaurant in our fair city, and given his fame and success, I’m sure that’ll happen no later than next year.

And the South shall rise again.

PS: Big shout-out to my boo and the delicious Whistle Pig rye corn milk punch with a port float and a secret ingredient (Corn Pops) that satisfied the 19-year-old stoner in me. Ya did great, babe.

One of our favorite chefs teaming up with the chef of one of our favorite Michelin starred restaurants to create a dinner inspired by their memories of summers in Portugal?

No brainer.

Best part was that Jane came with us. It’s her last week in town and so it was especially sweet to share this, our passion for haute cuisine, with her.

Second best part was Chef Mendes’ creamy gaspacho with pickled cucumbers, tri-star strawberries, and ricotta snow (mmmm fun with nitro).

Third best was the crazy abundance of champagne and hors d’oeuvres: oysters with face bacon! pickled mackerel! cherry tomatoes stuffed with chickpea goodness! glorious fried things that exploded in your mouth! you get the idea!

(I hate when there aren’t enough hors d’oeuvres to go around, don’t you? Then you gotta cut a bitch and that is not cute.)

PS: My fellow Top Chef fans will be glad to know Mendes is just as handsome in person. (That’s him with the concentration and the hair.) And he’s dating a food photographer, which for some reason is adorable to me (synergy?).

Not bad for a Monday….

Though sadly it’s Jane’s last. :(

vneckandacardigan:

My lunchtime view at Aldea.

Captures the ambiance of one of our faves.

Impromptu dinner date at Aldea last night, one of our favorites. The first snowfall and the quiet city streets reminded me of the wonderful night when it seemed we had all of Midtown and Times Square to ourselves.

I’m not sure if he planned it this way but he chose a good moment to break the bad news: his friend at Alinea told him they’re closing for the whole week of Christmas so we won’t be able to go when we’re in Chicago. It’s only something I’ve looked forward to for months (if not years, since this fascinating article and also this whole thing and this night when he said, Meh, Alinea’s better and we’ll go there soon).

… but over sea urchin toast, nothing seems so bad.

(Can I request that, Universe? Deliver all bad news with a side of Santa Barbara uni? That’s be just swell. Cheers.)

PS: The venison detritus, bottom right, is for Dad. Because I know the use of eucalyptus for fragrance — the dish came topped with glass dome to contain the smokey aroma that was theatrically lifted in our faces — would appall your delicate sensibilities. People pay for this crap?

The Knollcrest Farm Egg with bacalao, black olive, and potato at Aldea is one of the single greatest things I’ve ever put in my mouth.

If you visit, I’d recommend sharing many petiscos (small bites) and appetizers, and forgoing entrees entirely. There is just too much creativity coming out that kitchen to limit yourself to a few flavors and textures. We had Sea Urchin Toast, Salchichon de Bellota, Lighty-Cured Mackerel, Fingerling Potato Soup, Slow-Poached Egg and Smoked Bacon, Lolla Rossa and Tatsoi Salad, and three cheeses. All of which I’d eat again and again and again.