A wise woman once said ”give me my bad news with a side of uni.” (I’m paraphrasing, but spoiler alert — it was me, and I can do that.)
It’s almost a pity I didn’t have anything to mope about on Friday, ‘cause Dave Santos’ five-course homage to the great urchin of the sea would have kicked even the biggest bummer in the bum. (Dave, you may recall, is the genius chef behind Um Segredo, a supper club he runs out of his Roosevelt Island apartment.)
We ate uni with truffle and uni with branzino, uni delicately layered with crab and tomato marmalade and uni lolling about in a bowl of carrot foam and risotto, uni with medallions of pork (I gave mine to M.) and uni with a towering fluff of lemon meringue (just kidding, no uni there). We had more uni than I’ve ever had, and yet I could have kept on eating it, course after course, for several days at least. And I’ve concluded: while it goes well with bad news, it goes even better with good news — or good wine. Whatever you got. Just hand over the uni.
To sign up for the Um Segredo mailing list, like the page on Facebook. And for those who would prefer to enjoy Dave’s food Manhattan-side, he frequently partners with City Grit
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Notes from others: